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Re: Wezly sie same rozwiazuja...


04 Jun 2019 - 14:28:50
Walter Siebert: znam co najmniej 20 śmiertelnych wypadków, których najprawdopodobniejszą przyczyną była awaria taśmowego.




A tutaj ten sam gentelman pokazuje jak taśmowy płynie pod cyklicznym obciążeniem:





Zjawisko to opisał Pitt Schubert w latach 90:
"This issue has been reported by Pitt Schubert, in the 1990's. Pitt (now retired) who was employed by the German Alpine Club (DAV) to look into safety issues. And he was the President of the UIAA Safety Commission for many years. He helped formulate much of the current ideas and standards on climbing safety. In fact the German speaking climbing community tends to advise use of manufactured slings, instead of "home made" ones like this. And to use other types of knots where possible. This knot is only used in a small number of specific cases. I quote the current DAV member of the UIAA SafeCom: "The problem is indeed that there is a risk that a water knot in tape can open up on rock structures. Pitt Schubert described 19 accidents with the water knot in his book “Sicherheit und Risiko in Fels und Eis”, Band II on page. 136-144 (in German only). For this reason, in Germany we do not instruct the water knot to connect slings. We recommend to use stitched slings (EN 566) as far as possible. The only application we use tape for is to connect a chest-harness with a sit-harness. For a permanent connection of cords, we instruct the double or triple fischermann´s knot and for connect something in climbing position the overhand knot. This is the Situation in Germany and more or less the same in Austria and Swiss." So yes, this information should be spread more widely. And when that is done, reference should be made to this research by Pitt Schubert. It's always good to refer to facts and earlier work. I'm surprised that the author of this video did not know of Pitt's work. Or if he DID know, that he did not refer to it. It's not easy to spread the information about safety: it takes people and can cost money to have the resources to do it in an organized way (for instance to translate and spread the info in German language items). One issue the UIAA has is that we don't have a lot of people to help us, nor the resources/funds to get more. Or even the majority of climbing associations supporting us. Many (most) climbers in the USA for instance don't contribute towards this sort of thing. The UIAA is mainly funded by its member federations. The majority of climbers don't join their national federations, and thus don't support work like this. Alan Jarvis UIAA Safety Commission Delegate (I'm a volunteer) South African Mountain Club (who do support the UIAA: do you?)



scandare necesse est
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makar04 Jun 2019 - 14:28:50



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